BIG SUR: This larger-than-life coastline was named by Spanish settlers (sur means 'south' -- they referred to it as the big country to the south). Sincerely one of the most spectacular drives I've ever taken, although I'm aware that I keep saying that. These photos resemble those taken on the Oregon/North Cali coast, but I can assure you that in real life, the Big Sur Coast is much more rugged, wilder and grander in stature than anywhere I've driven thus far.
Bixby Bridge, built in 1932 by inmates eager to reduce their prison time.
McWay Falls in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. Just gorgeous. Emptying onto the beach 80 feet below and making such a pretty spectacle of itself that I stayed much longer than intended to admire the show.
More random shots of the Big Sur drive....
You can just make out the highway in the right-hand corner of the picture....
Pfeiffer Beach. Pretty and phenomenally windy.
Pfeiffer Beach has cool purple sand, from the manganese running down from nearby hills.
Even though it's only 141 miles from Monterey to San Luis Obispo, one should allow at least 4 hours to drive the tortured bends of the Big Sur Coast, which is nestled between the two cities. Allow even more time if a hike or a picnic is on the agenda.
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Hearst Castle
Just before arriving in San Luis Obispo, there's a turn-off that leads to Hearst Castle, the former home of media mogul William Randolf Hearst.
Looking more like a Gothic Cathedral, Hearst Castle took 28 years to build. Indeed, it is still unfinished and has been left in the same state as when its owner died in 1951.
Hearst lived here with his mistress, actress Marion Davies, in what can only be called sheer excess. Hearst's wife, and mother of his five sons, refused to grant him a divorce (her monthly spending allowance was 10,000$ -- one million nowadays. Who could have blamed her?) So his scandalous affair with the young comedienne 34 years his junior was carried on publicly.
The enormous Neptune Pool was named for the Roman god of the sea.
Looking from the pool area toward 'The Ranch', as Hearst called his home.
Thanks to her Hollywood connections and their combined incomes, Hearst and Davies hosted some of the most lavish parties that even the biggest celebrity could ever have dreamed of attending.
Invitations to Hearst Castle were highly coveted, and evenings were both opulent and down-to-earth. Guests were asked to dress only in what we would consider 'business-casual', and ketchup/mustard bottles were set directly onto the dining table, right next to the priceless silverware and crystal. All in the interest of making guests feel at ease and ensuring that the party wasn't stuffy... Not sure if it was all that casual, but I'd nevertheless bet good money that no one ever burped or farted at this table.
Invitations to Hearst Castle were highly coveted, and evenings were both opulent and down-to-earth. Guests were asked to dress only in what we would consider 'business-casual', and ketchup/mustard bottles were set directly onto the dining table, right next to the priceless silverware and crystal. All in the interest of making guests feel at ease and ensuring that the party wasn't stuffy... Not sure if it was all that casual, but I'd nevertheless bet good money that no one ever burped or farted at this table.
In Hearst's presence, cussing was not allowed, drunkenness wasn't tolerated and no one could speak of death. Ever. Below, the library and the lounging room.
Marion Davies was a successful actress by the time she met Hearst and never relied on his income. In fact, she wrote him a cheque for 1 million dollars to bail several of his companies out of bankruptcy. When Hearst died, he left his fortune to her, which she promptly handed over to his children. Needless to say, she had independent means.
Charlie Chaplin was a frequent guest and avid tennis player, and Winston Churchill wrote many of his anti-Nazi papers in his chambers here.
The castle is constructed of steel-reinforced concrete, making it extremely earthquake-proof. 68,500 sq feet, 115 rooms including 38 bedrooms (each one had its own private bathroom, unheard of at the time), a library, a movie theater, kitchen and living quarters for household staff.
The Roman Bath, decorated with over a million Murano glass tiles, some of which contain a layer of gold leaf inside.
Hearst had animals brought in from all over the world to adorn his personal zoo, which included giraffes and zebras. The zebras were set free long ago and prospered in the hot, dry environment; apparently, one can often spot them hanging around the Motel 6 just down the hill. Below, the enclave where the polar bears were kept in cold water.
Hearst's bedroom. Rather modest for a billionaire, wouldn't you say?
Hearst's bedroom. Rather modest for a billionaire, wouldn't you say?
Wow. Who feels down-to-earth now? The required tours to see the interior and castle grounds were interesting and fun to take, but it was altogether a bit of a head-shaker. Absolute craziness, in my opinion (Hearst's worth rivaled the budget of a Central American country).
Next up : More tree-hugging (sorry guys) in Sequoia / Kings Canyon National Parks.
Love you all,
xx
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