I'm here!
First park: JEDEDIAH SMITH REDWOODS STATE PARK. One thing to note about redwoods: they are among the world's tallest and oldest trees. Even though their girth is impressive, they are not the largest trees on the planet: that honor goes to the Sequoias further South, which I'm hoping to get to by the end of the month.
The redwood groves in Jedediah are so thick that there are few roads or hiking trails. Most driveable roads are one-lane, unpaved tracks such as this one.
I found a really big one.
Some of these guys are as high as a 30-storey skyscraper (more than 320 feet).
What impresses me most is that some of these trees predate the Roman era. A few of them were saplings in 27 BC when the Roman era was founded. That is amazing to me.
Park #2: HUMBOLDT REDWOODS STATE PARK. Sitting at the foot of the inventively-named Big Tree, whose measurements are preposterous : Height 304 feet (92.6 meters), Diameter 21.6 feet (6.6 meters), Circumference 68 feet (20.7 meters), Age 1,500 years.
Of the original 2 million acres of redwoods, about 95% have been logged. Trees in provincial or state parks are protected, but not those on private land or in national forests. It's easy to understand the frustration that motivated all the tree-huggers that fought --and continue to fight-- for these .
I've never camped at a spot where a 3-person tent could be dwarfed by the trunk of a tree. It's frustratingly difficult to convey with my lens...
The Dyerville Giant. This is the only photo I have of it (see posted video on my FB page). This was thought to be the world's tallest tree until the discovery of nearby Hyperion in 2006. Hyperion's location hasn't been disclosed to the public, so this is the tallest tree available for public viewing. And because it's lying on the forest floor, its enormity can be fully appreciated (again, refer to video). Height 113.4 meters (372 ft) and 1,600 yrs old when it fell in 1991.
Park #3: PRAIRIE CREEK REDWOODS STATE PARK. This is in Fern Canyon. Its rock walls are 10-15 meters in height (33-49 feet) and are completely covered in lush ferns. It's a deep canyon and the light piercing the canopy is blinding, so its depth and beauty are difficult to capture with my camera. It's one of the most photographed places on the coast, and almost every single dinosaur movie or documentary has been shot here.
Small, charming city of Eureka in Humboldt County. Together with neighboring Arcata, this is arguably California's most progressive area. In 2003, its citizens outlawed voluntary compliance with the USA Patriot Act and in 2006, they spearheaded a movement to impeach President George W. Bush. Garbage trucks here run on biodiesel, recycling gets picked up on tandem bicycles, and almost every street has a bike lane.
This area is also known as the ''heartland of high-grade marijuana''. Citizens have full rights to defend their crops with arms, and hikers are consequently warned to stay on posted trails. I have never in my life seen so much tie-dye or beautiful elderly ladies with long, silver hair. Hippie central!
Ferndale, a cute Victorian spot. Reputably the North Coast's most charming town, its houses are nicknamed 'butterfat palaces' because of the dairy industry that built them. Although I didn't take pictures, most homes here did look like doll houses.
One place that must be visited in Humboldt Redwoods SP is Avenue of the Giants, a gorgeous 32-mile scenic drive through some of the world's tallest trees. In fact, Humboldt Redwoods SP boasts three-quarters of the world's tallest 100 trees, (appropriately-named Big Tree, Tall Tree, Dyerville Giant, and Giant Tree).
Giant Tree (Height 363 ft, circumference 53.2 feet, no age provided).
I greatly enjoyed camping, driving and hanging around among these trees. I even went for a run along the Avenue of the Giants, which was sublime.
Next up, I'll be heading South along the Coast for a bit, then veering East to the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. Every day so far has been sunny and beautiful, even in 'rainy and foggy' Oregon. The temps have been steady at about 78 F (26 C). Perfect.
I've been warned by park wardens that temps in the Napa Valley are going to reach the triple digits while I'm there. (106 F or 41 C !!!) Perhaps I'll choose some refreshing whites instead of my usual reds...
Love you all, xx
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